Author Archives: Rajulul Islam

Kern-Desolation Wilderness-East Carson-Upper Owens

Honestly the best part about the way my roles in the company have evolved is being able to sneak hours here and there on a river while on a business trip. Many times I get to fly fish with the actual client or potential client.

Well, I met my buddy Jim after a keynote I did earlier in the year and we immediately became friends. He’s a CFO at a large org – perfect customer for the kind of software work we do. As a part of visiting his company up north and meeting his team we made the plans to Back-pack into the Desolation Wilderness (just west of tahoe).

Great long weekend. I fished the way up. worked, back-packed, and fished my way home.

Thursday, June 26th, 2014 – Kern River

If I am driving all the way up to the Sacramento area for a 3pm meeting how could I resist not leaving at 0-dark-30 and hit the Kern River for an hour or two? It’s a hundred year drought and that is one of the wildest and most dangerous rivers we have in California. Although not really on the way, the Kern River above the Johnsondale Bridge is easy to get to. I didn’t have time to scour for fishing reports, but I have been fly fishing long enough to be pretty sure that it would be good….and I was right.

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My first surprise was that no other fishermen were there… there were some kids drinking beer below the bridge, but only a couple cars in the parking lot. hmmmm…. But, yea the river is low….significantly low… almost low enough to cross and if you know this stretch of river you know how crazy that statement is.

Well, there is only one positive of a 100 year drought in California…the fly fishing is really good. Because of my 3pm meeting, and having to be right on time because of a number of people in the room I just couldn’t risk being late. I would have to shower up and put on “adult clothes” too. So, I only fished for an hour and a half… and just killed. I caught and released a number of fish and lost a bunch too. I was never short of action, and much of it was on the rise. And the low river made it easy to hike up river. The farther I went, the better the fishing got. I made it back to a great riffle stretch I know that is fishable in normal conditions. It’s about a mile up river. And I kept telling myself, “I have to leave; I have to leave.” But, the fishing was so good.

So, like decades of fly fisherman before me who have said this and lied… I said to myself, “ok, one more cast and I’m leaving.” I casted and had a great long drift…. It just felt like it was a drift that would produce…. But it didn’t. On the swing I got ready to pull in line and continue the lie and Whack! A big fish rose and grabbed my “huck-hopper” on the swing. But it was downstream so I couldn’t tell how big or what it was. Then it jumped! “Woo!” I screamed to no one. my guess around 14”. I turned him and he jumped again. “Woo!” Now I realized I had to chase him or get him up stream if I was going to land him. Well, he decided he’d make it easier on me and do a 100 foot run up stream… I didn’t screw it up and kept tension on him. As he passed me I tightened to turned him and “Woo!” he jumped again. At this point I was worried I was tiring him and stressing him so I decided to pressure and land him so he’d survive. Great fish. Male, kern river rainbow.

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Then I scampered….practically running back down the trail to my truck. I made it. but, I stretched the speed limit laws beyond capacity. Great meeting. Totally made the day a perfect one.

Saturday, June 28th, 2014 – Desolation Wilderness; Ralston Trail

Ok, a day of “work” on Friday and it’s time for the wilderness. I have a weakness…sort of.. I’m a planner and a “lister”. So, when Jim and I iterated over the trail head we’d enter the Desolation Wilderness I was kind of gnawing at my arm. And the crazy thing is that we didn’t even decide until the morning of. We went to the ranger station on the way there, north on highway 50, and didn’t decide until we talked to them. The Ralston Trail…. Jim and Robert said they’d done the trail before…years earlier. I could see from the Thomas Harris map it was going to be a bitch. …and it was. not, the number one most physically exhausting treks I have ever done… but, top ten for sure. 3000 vertical feet to 9000 feet…in 2.5 miles! And that is just the start of the trek. The view on top made it worth it, though.

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Because of the physical effort it affected the mental attitude of the group and we decided to not go the 6 miles to aloha lakes, but to hike down to “Lake of the Woods”. We had intel that there were awesome sites there. And I could swear I read a fishing report that it was good.

Lake of the Woods is a managed area by the state. So the primitive campsites on the east side of the lake are heavily regulated. And after that trek none of us felt like sharing with other humans…..who inhabited all the designated sights. So we kept going. I had my 2nd wind by now. but, my partners were “done” and ready to call it a day and set up camp. We finally found a non managed area on the west side. After setting up camp I immediately told my buddies I was going to scout the lake with a fly rod in this beautiful place. and I did….. crystal clear beautiful lake with 30 feet visibility… but I could not see a fish..and no bugs were hatching either. Hmmm… I kept bush whacking, climbing and looking for fish. Nothing. I blind fished a while, which in this part of the world is just a practice in casting.

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And my buddied then joined me. I told them I have not seen fish and they looked at me peculiar… like they didn’t trust my fly fishing skills.

We regrouped at the camp and a ranger joined us to check passes. I asked him sheepishly, “Are there any fish in this lake?”. Without hesitation he said, “no. none. Never has been.” Ok, we picked the only lake in the desolation wilderness that doesn’t have fish. It’s ok, I say to myself. We have the morning.

And that is where the crazy ass adventure starts. My buddies have hiked and backpacked the desolation wilderness for 20 years off and on. this is my first time in this wilderness. and because of the huge physical effort they are saying, “we can’t go back the way we came; it’s too hard.” So they ask the ranger if we just hike south towards the horsetail waterfall, off trail. And I am thinking to myself that this idea was the dumbest idea I have ever heard. And to my shock the ranger actually encouraged it saying, “yea, there is no trail. People have done it. it’s very steep.” And my buddies say, “we are doing it.” and I’m thinking we are dead.

Sunday, June 29th, 2014 – Day two of the Desolation Wilderness

It was a rough night. the sun went down at 9pm and since you can’t have a campfire we were in bed just thereafter. I hiked in JD to share with jim but even that didn’t help. I just can’t sleep backpacking even though I have decent gear. I toss and turn all night and even though I was sweating hot when I got into bed I’m bitter cold at 3am and unable to sleep because I’m cold. Well 5am rolled around when I finally did get to REM sleep and sure enough jim and Robert were up. no worries. I got up too. we had a “plan”. There were a few lakes in our path before we headed down the crazy ass 1000 feet of waterfall so we would carry the rods and we’d fish them on the way.

Sure enough. At pitt lake I didn’t see fish, but there was a river system feeding it (the one feeding the waterfall) . and I have never been that good at stillwater fishing. I killed on that river system. Brookies….big brookies.. all on top…on the “huck-hopper”. Totally fun. I was at a pace for a 40 fish day but I only got to fish an hour or so because I knew that crazy-ass climb down was ahead of us.

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Again I said to myself, just one more…. And I hiked up river to a small lake…. I scouted a fish rising… and for god sakes I had a backcast. There was a 30 foot clearing in the trees where I could do a reach cast of 60 feet and the fish would never see me. I said to myself….just as so many before me have said, “don’t’ blow it.” I load the rod… the cast rolls in and sets on the water. And I say to myself, “not perfect, but good enough.” Whack! Big brookie rises to the huck-hopper. Big battle. No jumps because brookies don’t typically do that. but I bring the beautiful fish to net and let him go. Then I have to get back to find my buddies. I’m worried they are sitting around waiting for me. Even though jim caught a fish and Robert fished a bit before his dog freaked out without him. oh yea, I forgot to tell you there is a dog on our trip. and we have a 1000 feet of waterfall to decend.

So, I apologize and tell my buddies how good the fishing is. They are great guys and I think they actually are happy I had so much fun in the hour or so I fished. But, now it’s time. And to my shock, even after specific directions from the ranger; These two are uncertain which side of the river we need to hike down. guess what? We picked the wrong side. beautiful. awesome. But we come to a 750 foot cliff and it’s clear to me we have gone the wrong way. so, their plan has backfired. Now we have to hike back up hill all the way to where we started. And this is really where the adventure starts.

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The river is braided up top. And I’d call it crossable, but we have 35 lbs on our backs. And we do not want to get wet and hike with wet boots down steep granite walls. Well, there is a reason my after college roommate Wax called me, “goat boy”. The lord didn’t’ give me a lot, but I am agile. I rock hop and scamper over fallen trees to cross the multiple braided river. The penalty for failure is significant. Swept down a river and over the falls. So, jim and Robert are having trouble crossing…and theres the dog…. At one point out plan is that I am to grab the dog by his pack to grab him out of the river as he gets swept by. Jim scoots over a fallen log instead of “wallenda-ing” it… he’s a stud… ~65 years old and insane that he is leading this thing. I am just dying what a stud he is for his age, and wanting to be just like him… in a decade.

Finally we get across…and now it’s go-time. And it is worse than I could have imagined. Straight down in many spots…down a granite face of boulders…. We had to go slow. But, I end up going 100 feet and waiting. Over and over. And in my impatience I make a few near-death mistakes. And that is when I made the “selfish” decision to concentrate and get down on my own terms. So I did. right or wrong I did it.

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I went into ultra concentration and just made it down. crazy ass dangerous, difficult. I’m at the bottom of the water fall where the trailhead starts. And I’m safe. But, the guilt sets in because my buddies are not. I make water and hydrate. I eat. The irony is that because the bottom of the waterfall is reachable by trail there are lots of folks there. sun bathing. And I’m worrying about my buddies.

An hour passes and I’m really worried. I am now hydrated, rested and fueled. And resigned to hiking back up the crazy ass mountain to look for my hurt or dead buddies. But, two back packers, A husband-wife team about my age appears from the mountain. I walked up to them and said, “Hey, did you happen to see a couple backpackers my age with a dog?” Thank god she said, “yea, they are up there. Going slow. The dog is hurt do they can’t go fast.” And a huge sigh of relief commenced. So I waited. And when they finally appeared it was a huge sigh of relief for me.

They are bloody. And they are tired. And I can see they are emotionally “done”. After trading stories and making water for Jim, I say, “listen, I have been here and hour. I’m ready. I’m dehydrated and fed. Let me take off now to the trail head. I’ll hike up hwy 50 and get the car.” Seeing that look of joy on their faces was confirmation enough. Because what was in front of us was 3 miles back to the trailhead and then 1.5 to 2 miles up highway 50, exposed to the sun to the Ralston trailhead we took off on . But, as I took off I said to myself, “Oh my god that is going to physically suck hiking hwy 50. Thank god I ran into a great guy and his dog on the trail that helped us navigate the way home. Almost immediately when I told him my story he said, “Let me drive you to your truck.” And he did. The wrong way. What a good Samaritan. Talk about karma. Well I drove the truck back from the Ralston Trailhead to the Horse Hair falls trailhead and staged it with the sun shower and cold beer. Robert appeared first…laughing and saying jim was in bad shape…. And then came jim with a smile on his face…bloodied and exhausted…what a stud.

We spent 30 mins cleaning up, re-hydrating, eating and telling stories. And then it was time to part. We shook hands and joked we should do it again next weekend.

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Sunday, June 29th, 2014 – The East Carson River

It was only around 3pm. the east carson river was 30 mins away. And I had plenty of daylight to fish. The only problem was my exhausted 52 year old body and a 100 year drought. I snuck in a call and a txt to Kelly to tell her I was safe and off I went.

When I got to the markleeville bridge I was the only one there… hmmm… shouldn’t it be crowded on a Sunday? but within minutes a guide and two beginners showed up. so, I felt a bit better I was taking my time recovering and that guide didn’t want any part of me and hurried his way down river where I was going to fish. I just got that impression he didn’t want me around. willy ray told me he did well up river so I decided to fish away from the guide. When I got to the water I was surprised how warm it was. and the Sun was out in force. Always a bad combo for fishing.

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First I saw a bald eagle patrolling the river…never good for fishing, either. Then I ran into a family of river otters…always bad for fishing…. Then I almost stepped on a 2 foot river snake… still no fish or sight of fish in a very low crystal clear river. And now I’m questioning my motives….. but I’m so far in the wilderness I really have no choice but to fish. So I keep on.

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The river is beautiful, but the fishing is not. I fish all the fishy runs but not a thing.

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My plan was to sleep overnight there in the back of my truck, but with the fishing so slow and me 10 hours from home, I talked myself into calling it a day, walking the road back and getting a two hour jump on the drive by going to the upper owens river just south of mammoth lakes where I knew there was a campground that always had spots. I arrived at 830 pm and ate the snack like back packing food I had. In a sleeping bag in the back of my truck at 9pm. it was hot so I opened the windows in the truck. By 2am I was cold and shut the window.

Monday, June 30th, 2014 – The Upper Owens River above Benton Crossing.

Up at 6am. not a bad night of sleep; good enough. I made myself coffee on my backpacking stove. I wandered over to the river and saw lots of big fish feeding on top! Too bad it’s illegal to fish this stretch at this time of year (the spawn). I Forced myself to eat a peanut butter and banana sandwich quickly so I could drive to my favorite spot (dead cow) before the crowds and while the fish were feeding early on this sunny day.

I was on the river by 730am. I fished all the way to 230pm. it wasn’t crazy good, but it wasn’t slow either. I fished a huck-hopper-dropper and got action all day. mostly small Rainbows. But, I did catch a few small browns. Nothing really to get all excited about, but, I did catch a spawned out 14” male Cutthroat. That was kinda cool.

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I could have fished all day; I answered emails occasionally. The weird thing was that I was all alone. I have never fished that river alone. I guess everyone fished Crowley that day….the reports said it was on fire.

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I had that long, 6+ hour drive home (depending on the traffic) so I called it a great long weekend adventure and took off south. I never even put the radio or music on, on the way home. I had so much to reflect on during that totally fun trip.

Colorado Fly Fishing May 8-11, 2014 with Burny

This trip was planned to coincide with the last long break Burny (Mark McGeary) will ever have. Next year at the seminary and then when he becomes a priest he will be lucky to get 2 weeks a year of vacation. Being a catholic priest is a 24/7 job. He’s a stud; he has a calling. And he’s a ‘stick’.

But, we ran into 4 days of nasty cold snow, wind and hail. And raging river conditions. Not typically good for fishing….which was the case on this trip…. Still fun; of course. Lots of beautiful wilderness and tons of calories burnt bushwhacking and battling raging river conditions. We caught fish; we just didn’t catch a ton of fish.

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Thursday May 8 – Middle Fork of the S. Platte at Santa Maria Ranch:

Bitter cold, wind, hail, snow…. Totally fun. J

The fishing was slow. I managed to get 6 to net. Half on steamers; half under the indicator. No rises. Two fish were worth talking about ….one was A huge male rainbow, ~20” jumped on me 4 times….big battle with multiple runs. Great fish. One little brown.

I also caught a huge sucker….like 16”… I have never caught one before. I nailed him in the nose and it had to be total blind luck.

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Headed over to the private section at the end of the day.

Thursday May 8 – Middle Fork of the S. Platte at Andy and Jeff’s private area:

Shocked to see one of my favorite streams in a marsh condition. As it turned out the beavers got in there and created multiple dams which totally changed the area. I hiked downstream first…. it was cold… and I forgot that the downstream section is mostly riffles; mostly dry fly area…. I barely fished looking for pools. I took the trail back to the car; navigated across the river… startled by running into another fisherman. It was starting to get dark and very cold. I knew that burny and andy were probably dying to leave so I was resigned to getting skunked. Then I heard a rise… I looked over and saw the disturbance in the water….immediately casted… whack! Good battle and a big brown to net. Done. headed for the car to find the boys ready to go.

We had dinner in fairplay…the only restaurant in town is now a Chinese place. andy drove home and I had to take the wheel in mark’s car because his eyes were bugging him so bad he couldn’t see. Normally this wouldn’t be an issue…but, we had to go over the mountain to Breckenridge and down to Silverthorned and the storm kept getting worse and worse until I could barely see driving and the snow was sticking on the road. We made it though. around 1015pm… to the awesome house at Silverthorne on the blue.

Friday May 9 – The Blue River in the private section:

I like to say “I own” this section of river because I have never done poorly….even as a beginner. I have qualified for Colorado Master Angler twice there. But we woke up to a foot of snow on the ground and a raging river. The clarity was good. but, I have never seen the river so high. I have never seen that river where it is impossible to cross in any stretch. We tried to fish it….unsuccessfully all the way to the hole….and there was no hole… completely blown out.

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So we drove the car to the other side and parked on the highway to fish the seams… nothing… just raging current. That’s when we made the call to drive over to clear creek.

Friday May 9 – Clear Creek off Hwy 70:

We fished clear creek in numerous places off the 70 from Silver Plume to Idaho Springs. The weather never really gave us a break. Wind, snow, cold.

I was really excited to nail a genuine Colorado cutthroat in a big pool at the 2nd place we stopped. I thought that was going to be my fish of the trip at that point because they are so rare…especially where I caught it in such a poached, public place.

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At the last place we stopped where the rafting put ins are. I got a brown and a small rainbow. All in all a tough day of fishing …. 4 fish to net for me. lots of brutal bushwhacking and hiking in altitude. Lots of calories burned, but because of the freeway not the most beautiful part of Colorado.

At one point I stared down at the river and there were thousands of dead trees pinned against the mountain below hwy 70. I said to myself, why in the world would someone dump trees off the side of the road…what an eyesore… then it occurred to me. I turned 180 and up on the mountain…bare…. A huge avalanche was the reason. To get that many trees stuck that high on the mountain the avalanche had to be 200 feet tall.

We bbq’d steaks, drank JD and collapsed. Had to be out the door by 8am the next morning.

Saturday May 10 – The Williams Fork of the Colorado River:

I was stressing on where Mark and I would fish. I even looked at the private sections in southpark again, but you cannot reserve same day. I called rocky mountain anglers fly shop in boulder and they were very helpful. So, my plan at that point was for Burny and me to fish the lower part of clear creek of hwy 6 in the canyon on the way to boulder. Then to fish up at boulder creek with the big hike down at walkers ranch.

That was the plan….until we stopped in at cutthroat angers in Silverthorne. Eric, who has helped me before devised a better plan for me and mark. Due north to the western edge of Rocky Mountain National Park and the headwaters of the Colorado River. Eric said if we were ok with a 1-2 mile hike in the Williams fork was a tailwater and could potentially fish well. We love a hike so excitedly we head out with intricate directions to a dirt parking lot by a barn near Parshall, CO. even when we got there it was sketchy if we were in the right place. but, I got my phone out and did the gps thing and said, “yea, this is it.”. the question was which way to hike. We were advised to fish from the confluence of the Colorado and the Williams fork up.

Then burny said, “look at my tire.” Almost flat…uggg… but, what could we do? it could have been low the entire way. We just drove over 2 hours and were excited to fish. So, we risked it and walked away, fly rods in hand. I know burny was worried and so was i.

we walked the dirt road for a mile or so and then just bushwhacked it when we saw the Willaims fork. When we got there…. raging… but fishable. The trick was that the water was over the barbed wire cow fence in many spots which made it difficult and dangerous.

Firstly we fished it all the way down to the confluence quickly. Typically confluences are awesome places to fish because of the seam….and the spawn. But, we didn’t get anything to move. I even fished a giant foam patch with millions of midges hatching in it and didn’t get a strike. Weird. There were birds feeding too. but nothing rising and no takes. I was a bit worried it would be another slow day. and, at this point the weather was actually nice.

So, we worked our way up to where we started and I put an egg pattern on. Since it was slow I had little guilt about that. I dropped it below one of my infamous green flashbacks (Huck-Verde). I went back in the river to the place I fished an hour earlier….wading carefully through the raging current to an island and started pounding the run against the other bank again. Whack! Big jump. Now the battle was on. it jumped again and I could see it was a big rainbow. But, I was stuck out on the island in raging current and landing it there since the fish was already downstream was impossible. I had 5x on so I couldn’t muscle him either. So, I entered the current and carefully got myself to the bank while battling. I asked burny for help landing – I never do that. but, the fish was too big for his net. He finally folded it over into his net and I immediately dumped the fish into my net. We took a trophy shot; then a shot under water and released him still hot. Beautiful fish around 20”.

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I no sooner was checking my rig and catching my breath when burny was on! two big fish 60 seconds apart!. Burny battled his ~16” but, with the current couldn’t get his nose up so I had a bit of trouble netting. But, I did; we took pics and released. Now, we were excited. And, I had no idea at the time, but Mark told me that was he first fish of the trip. You know things are slow when he gets skunked two days in a row. He is a “stick”. Very good fly fisherman.

Unfortunately the weather turned bad and so did the fishing. We worked up stream for miles and I had one good take, but was too late to the set. That is the issue with the egg – because it’s rigged differently you have to be lightening quick on the set. It is a beautiful stretch of river and I can’t wait to do it again, but it was miserable cold and slow. At 3pm, we decided to hike back. I knew it was a 4-5 mile hike back to the car and we had that tire waiting. Normally we would have fished until 7pm…another 4 hours. But, we had the tire waiting and now I started worrying because it could cut into my Camille time.

We barely spoke on the hike back. Because it was physically demanding; up hill, huffing and puffing. And miserable cold and windy and snowing. And because of that tire. Well, we finally got to the car and the tire was in the same shape as we left it… thank god. A sigh of relief. The next town was 12 miles away and that is where a gas station would be so we could fill the tire. We drove slowly…found the station…it had air! But, once I pumped it to pressure I could hear the leak in the tire…and feel the hole… it was huge. we struck out on the auto shop in windy gap, CO..closed on Saturday….ugg… we had to stumble to the next town, Granby, CO. that is where nothing was open again and I called the auto club to put the spare on. it was miserable cold raining at this point. But, it only cost us an hour and we were back on the road.

A full 2.5 hour drive all the way to Louisville, CO, though, where the hotel was. I showered up quickly and encouraged burny to eat – that is when he laid the blow on me. “I’m not going. Just take the car”. I understood. Burny is not in a place in his life to hang at a “kegger”. But, I am.  and i was dying to see Camille.  But, he was my ride. Not a problem. I need excuses not to drink. I made it to camille’s house in boulder just after 8pm. it was great. the whole night was great. I was the only adult at a keg party of 75 or so. I hung just fine…and seemed to be quite the amusement for them.  And the drunken students, many of them grads, were pretty stoked that I would hang with them. and the boys were all pretty hammered. I learned new creative ways to play beer pong – clay had two tables at his house. and I witnessed the most awesome drinking game – Dizzy Bat. Creatively has not changed in 30 years. You fill a plastic baseball bat with beer. Everyone counts by secords as you chug it. you have to spin around the bat that many seconds. And then, dizzy, you get in a batting stance with the bat and they thow a pitch…of a beer can and dizzy, you have to make contact. If you miss…you have to spin again and do it again. Classicly funny. They were really wanting me to play both that game and beer pong, but thank god I did not though. Camille did, though. spun fell down, got up, lined up left handed and whacked it! awesome.  only about half the boys were able to make contact. 

I was in bed at the hotel by 1130pm. when I left the party it was getting big and they were starting to rage. I knew I left just in time.  i made camille promise she’d pick me up at 6am and not blow it.  if she ruined mothers day by me missing  my flight, i’d be dead.

At 545am I still had not heard from Camille… I txt’d and called many times. She was supposed to pick me up at 6am to drive me to the airport. finally at 615 one of her roomates picked up her phone and said, “i don’t know where she is or how i got her phone….”  i knew where she was….sigh….  but, I wasn’t too worried because worse case scenario it was an expensive cab or waking up and begging burny to take me. long story, but as I was talking to the cab dispatcher Camille finally called… 30 minutes late… I made it to the airport fine, though. awesome to see her.

Now back to the reality of mothers day and all the work I’m behind on and the stress of that work. worth it though. I am pretty proud of my work/wilderness balance.

Yellowstone National Park and Dupuy Spring Creek

Monday, April 7, 2014

This was our big day. Off to Yellowstone national park early to travel 100 miles or so of the north end of the park and then to fish the remainder of the day at Dupuy’s. A private spring creek that feeds the Yellowstone River. but, because of the success of the prior day it was really hard to get mark out of bed. I wanted to leave by 6am and I wasn’t even out of bed until 630. I think we left around 9am.

Once we got into the canyon within 10 miles of the park I told mark, “ok, it’s going to get good.” And sure enough it did. Wild buffalo were everywhere in the hills. They were even wandering around in the town of gardner on the north entrance to the park’s border.

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We couldn’t have travelled 2 miles into the park when we ran into the first (of like 50) heards of buffalo. I told Mark, “wanna’ stop?” “hell ya”, he said.

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As we stood above and took pictures I noticed a stairway looking thing and a trail. I couldn’t resist and said, “let’s go.”. so, cautioning him on safety and getting gored, we walked down to the buffalo. Mark got within 20 feet of them before he started getting nasty looks from the males and I told him to back off.

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He iPhone videoed to send to his buddies and got one crapping…typical. We pressed on in the rental car. Net-net I have never seen as many animals in one day as we did on that day. And I have been going to national parks, including Yellowstone my whole life. They come down from the mountains in the spring and we caught it just right. There was hardly anyone there too so we saw none of that famous YNP traffic. We went all the way to the lamar valley hoping to see the wolves and all we saw there were the professional photograhers taking pictures of them 2 miles away….and tons more buffalo. The only real mammal we didn’t see that day was a bear.

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We saw a lot of animals… a lot… 500+ buffalo, elk, deer, moose, antelope, big horn sheep..

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After a full 4-5 hour trek in the rental car in Yellowstone we headed back towards Livingston to Dupuy Spring Creek. We didn’t get there until 2pm. And to my dismay, the place that Paul told us to fish had 8 trucks parked there. I have never seen that many people on Dupuy. I really thought they limited the rods, but not on this day. we kept going on the dirt road up river and there were people everywhere. We eventually parked way on top and fished that part – which I had never done before….and now I know why. I taught mark how to fish a streamer, but even I couldn’t get one on a streamer. I got a small tap, but that was it for the first hour. Mark was proficient on the streamer, but since we werent’ getting anything I switched him to the bobber. But, that stretch yielded nothing. So back in the car we went and travelled on the dirt road all the way downriver to the other end which I was very familiar with the water. It was late so most of the guides and fisherman were gone. And sure enough, within the first 10 mins I guided mark to spot saying “cast there; cast here.” ect and boom! Brown trout. Ok, good. the rest of the day we had good action. Mark is really proficient in nymphing and can match up with anyone. I had to retie a number of his rigs from trees and bushes caught, but that is expected. Dupuys is very technical fishing.

Then we got to a spot where we clearly could see spawning fish. I let mark fish over them but they wouldn’t have any of it. I even tried to coerce the stray male and failed. But, mark moved down river 200 feet and without my help sighted a run and fished it….and boom! Huge battle.

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I fled out of the river to the side, dumped my rod and pack, grabbed the net, took a long distance picture of him battling and I ran down stream; and he was still battling. When I got to him, I said that must be a big fish and he says, “No, I think I tail hooked him.” I went in the river downstream trying to net the fish and got a glimpse as he saw me and bolted into current again. “no mark, it’s a huge fish and you have him hooked in the nose!” mark tired him and I netted him. high fives. I said, “you really are a good fly fisherman.” He was very pleased.

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We kept him in the net and I took pictures underwater of him while mark released him.

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We hiked all the way down to the culvert where the fish swim in on the way to spawn. It holds huge fish but it’s impossible to get a cast. The view is good though:

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At this point it was after 6:30pm and mark was clearly tired and running out of steam. I wanted to fish it to the end; to darkness at 8:30pm, but not a problem. I was mostly guiding on this day and was very pleased mark was doing well. So, we headed back to the truck with the deal that we’d fish that good hole by the truck before we left. And when we got there … risers, so I switched to the dries and mark continued to do well on the bobber.

And then I learned the sobering reality of matching the hatch and why I just am not an expert yet…at least in Montana. I threw everything at the rising fish and was ignored. Now mark was sitting, lost his flies again and I knew we needed to go. He was also probably starving. In hindsight instead of rapidly changing flies what I should have done is tied on finer tippet and seined the river to see what the hell they were eating. It was the first time I had brought a small net on the river and I totally forgot I had it. no problem. Lessoned learned. And I was pressed for time anyways.

So, we headed out, drove the 30 mins to bozeman and hit dave’s sushi, surprisingly good and packed with locals, before getting to the hotel room. Instead of crashing immediately we shared JD and coke. I caught up on email and mark did his social networking thing…I guess. He was on his computer. It wasn’t long before we crashed, exhausted.

 

Floating the Yellowstone River with Mark and Paul Bloch at the Oars

This is the trip I have planned for months…~5 months….almost the most planned trip I have ever done.  Why?  Because Mark is with me.  Almost 19 now, my times alone with him in the wilderness have been few and far between in the last couple years.  And next year he’s gone; off to college.  So, when Kelly opened a crack in the door for a father-son trip to MT as long as we visited MT State where he was accepted, and did it cheaply.  There is one splurge on the trip, though, we are floating the Yellowstone River with Paul Bloch.  And fishing with a guide in MT is expensive.  I have never fished the Yellowstone and it is frequently called the Yankee Stadium of the Rivers in MT.  So, we are paying the exorbitant guide fees for this once in a lifetime trip.

Sunday, April 6, 2014

As expected it was tough to get Mark out of Bed.  I had to lure him out with the crappy free Marriott breakfast thing.

I talked to paul on the phone and told me to try and find the base layer stuff.  there was a Walmart close and I needed to get beer, soda and water anyways so I trecked over there.  and I was reminded on why I hate Walmart so much.  tons of tons of crap but nothing in baselayers for anyone under 300 lbs.  so I bought us xls and cheap sox anyways.  and this was expenses out of the budget that Kelly always seems to haunt me about.

That excursion made us another 15 late but that was ok, because it was cold and snowing.   Paul picked us up at the hotel at 8:30am and we headed for the shop.

We drove 11 miles up river  (grey owl to carters bridge, I think)

In the beginning it wasn’t slow.  Mark was in front of the boat and missed 4-5 in a row getting his bearings to drift fishing in the boat.  We were catching white fish.  Within the hour we both had trout.  I was on streamers and just not catching like I should have.  Too early in the season.  Mark was on the bobber in front.  It was bitter cold, though.  30mph winds and snowing at times.

It was never really slow all day except for a 30 minute stretch and at times it was hot.   The first major accomplishment was when the weather got so bad we pulled over and landed to pee.  Paul took mark into the current out of the boat and he nailed a nice rainbow!  Out of the boat!  On the “Yankee Stadium” of rivers….the Yellowstone.  I was beaming.  So was paul.  Lots of high fiving.

Mark was killing it.  and I let him drink a couple beers in the boat.  He is almost 19.   He was out fishing dad again which made me so proud.  Paul was proud of him too.  he taught mark so much about casting and reading the water.

We got back in the boat and then it happened…..  in the fast water mark hooked, battled and landed a really nice brown on a dead drifted zonker.  Because of the fast water paul couldn’t back row it…so mark did a great job battling and landing that fish.

Then it occurred to me….the grand slam.  No way could a rookie get a grand slam on the Yellowstone….could he?  From the back of the boat I said to paul and mark: “Mark you have a chance at a Yellowstone river grand slam.”  Typically quiet and he was shivering cold, I said, “All you need is a genuine Yellowstone Cutthroat and you have it.”  paul immediately jumped on that and said, “we’ll do it!”

Well, the sun peaked out and it couldn’t have been five minutes later when mark was on and in a battle.  Paul seems to have the eyes of an eagle because at one point he said, “it’s a cuttie!”  Mark landed it.  high fives and “woo!”.  Paul carefully examined the fish and told mark: “in a decade this fish will not exist.  This is as pure a wild Yellowstone cutthroat as there is.”  Mark didn’t understand or appreciate that at the time and I’m not so sure he still does.  But, one day he’ll tell his kids he caught and released a fish that is extinct.

And there it was: Mark had a grand slam on the Yellowstone River.

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Now, there was only one thing left to do….and I knew exactly what paul was thinking….  Looking for risers.  We had been catching a lot of fish and with an 11 mile float we had to move so Paul pushed looking for risers.  He took us to one of his secrets spots…and it was like tuna feeding in the ocean.  I have never seen anything like that.  A full on boil in the foam with millions of bugs.

Paul shouted at Mark for what to do and for me.  Mark dragged his nymphs through there slowly as instructed by paul and boom!  A big rainbow.  Then, in typical paul fashion he said, “we have to do that again on dries.”  So, he back rowed to it and we anchored up stream of it because of the current being so strong next to it.  It was my turn so paul handed me the dry rig and I casted…missed to the left… cast again…miss to the right….cast again…in the zone… paul says, “twitch it.” I do.  Paul says, “Pull it back slowly…”  and I feel the tug and set and the battle is on and I scream “woo!”.  the fish runs to the fast current and jumps.  Paul says, “Big Cutty!”…. I’m on 5x and the fish in in the fast stuff below me so I’m panicking…  and he jumps again.  Paul says, “you are going to have to finesse him out of the current.”  And I say, “I’ll ruin the hole.”  He says that is ok.  So I try and try.  But finally I get the fish into the slower stuff about 50 feet below us and pull him up and through the hole and paul nets him, “Woo!”.  Late I found out paul had zero confidence I’d land that fish.

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We didn’t have bags; we were wearing other people’s clothes, and we didn’t care.  Great day.  We found out the next day that we were the only ones on the river that did well.  That is why I love fishing with paul.  He’s so good; and he always wants to do the special thing as opposed to the numbers thing.  he doesn’t seem to get the respect from the other outfitters and guides and I think I know why.  He’s only been fly fishing for a decade.  That is a rookie in that business.  Of course he’s only in his mid twenties.

We had a great day and mark and paul got along smashingly just as I predicted.

We took paul to the chophouse in Livingston. I insisted on treating; it is the right thing to do.  I love that place.  The food is spectacular.  Rivals anything Bozeman has that I have been to.   I had a buffalo rib eye.  Mark had lamb chops.  Paul had the biggest steak I have ever seen.  Awesome.

The other good news.  A long conversation with delta at billings and they overcame united’s screw up on the bags.  They were sitting idle in san Francisco where we missed our connection.  Even though I asked united on the phone to ensure our bags got transferred they blew it.  The delta gal I talked walked over to united and talked to them.  She rerouted the bags on two delta flights to Bozeman airport.  The only downside was that I had to pick them up at 1130 at night after that long day.  mark was so wiped he couldn’t even go with me and I didn’t mind.  He was worked.  I let mark drink a JD and coke in the room and since I had to drive to the Bozeman airport I passed.

I got all 3 bags at the Bozeman airport that night…thank god.  Because tomorrow was our “big day”.

Fly Fishing Report -Lower Owens River – March 19-22, 2014

Fly Fishing Report -Lower Owens River

March 19-22, 2104

Wednesday March 19, 2014

Because of work I got a late start from Las Vegas.  It was an easy drive, but I forgot there is no fast food stops for like 275 miles.  once you leave las vegas you don’t see anything until bishop…except for the whore houses; and I did see a wild burro.  It’s an awesome drive over the mountain.  And a one lane road through the canyon.

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I got to the river around 3:30PM.  Plenty of time.  I parked on the west side of the river where sloffy scoped the spot last time.  it’s a scramble down the hill and a tough hike up.  2 fish landed, one nice one, 5 misses and snapped off on a huge fish.   There weren’t a lot of bugs but I did try to fish on top for 1.5 hours and had some success before I switched to the “bobber”

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Thursday March 19, 2014

I parked at the power plant at the pleasant valley river dam.  I did really well in this stretch the last time I fished it.  It’s difficult fishing; not for beginners because of the trees and overgrowth and current.  But, there is a ton of pocket water and good runs.

I fished downstream all the way to the lake….i have never done that…it’s a long way…and just killed…  tons of action all day.  Nothing huge, but a lot of wild fish.  Totally fun.   Even called sloff during it to tell him how good it was.

No bugs, no risers, though.  I Fished the bobber all day and killed on huck-birds-nests as the trailer fly.  A few on the zebra midge above.  I probably landed 30+. And because of the difficult fishing I missed a bunch.  The best fish was one I stalked at the confluence of rock creek…exactly where I caught a fish the last time I went there.

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I moved in slowly but a big fish still saw me from 30 feet away and spooked…. So I paused and waited and he moved back in to place.  I casted up from him and “whack!”.  But, wait, no, not him.  a much smaller fish…. Darn.  I pulled him quickly out of that run so I could have a shot at the big one.   not expecting him to be there, let alone not spooked, I casted and “whack!”  much heavier… it’s him!  great battle, netted, pictured (above and below the water) and released.

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As I worked my way down river I forgot how beautiful that upper wild stretch is.  The entire stretch must have been awesome before the power plant and the dam.

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Overall, I believe the majority of the fish I caught were those wild brown holdovers from last years spawn.  8” to 12” fish the jump like crazy and fight like hell.

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Friday March 19, 2014

This time I tried an adventure….and I wont’ do it again.  I went on the dirt road on the west side of the river again, but went another 1.5 miles south looking for fly fishing trails down the mountain.  I found a place to park, but it was the cattle road and the trails down were for the cows.  I saw lots of cows to the south.  Really loud cows.  So I walked down the mountain and to what I thought was the quickest route to the river…mistake… totally overgrown and blocked…. Barely 2-3 places to fish in the first mile of hiking up river.  So I essentially started right before where I parked the first day.  Lesson learned.  Tons of calories huffing and puffing in the hot sun; which is not that bad either.

I caught two little wild browns on the bobber downriver early and then it just shut down….  no bugs; no action.  Non one else was catching fish either and there were a lot of guys on the river.  I talked to a lot of them.  I went a good 1.5 – 2 hours with nothing…beautiful stretch of river.

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Frustrated, I said to myself, “Screw this, I’m going to the streamer.”  That was around 230.  And it’s exactly when Brocky txt’d me begging to take him fishing.  He was my good luck charm.  For the next 3.5 hours I constantly battled huge wild fish.  One after another…. 4-5 from the same holes!  I worked back downstream.  Constant strikes on an olive, bead headed rabbit strip streamer I did not tie.  Some of the strikes were so violent I cut open my finger on the fly line ripping out line and cutting through my hands.  And for that entire 3 hours brock was txting me to take him fishing.  J

The highlight was an 18-19” fat hen that jumped numerous times.  I had to finish it up through the rapids.  It was a long huge battle and the fish still was hot after beaching her and taking her picture.

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I probably landed 20+ fish over 14” on that little streamer.  Awesome.  Interestingly enough there were a lot of fishermen on the river and no one was doing well.  They were all on the bobber.  I fished until around 630pm and even though I had some daylight and was doing well I fished all the way down, beyond my car and into the cows.  And was a bit worried about how to navigate back to my truck… which was well founded worry because I did run into some dead-ends and had to hike backwards.

Saturday March 22, 2014

Well, after 2.5 great days of fishing I was set to drive home early so I could work the weekend and do chores before mark and Kelly got back from Orlando.  But, how can you turn down a 14 year old that begs you to take him fly fishing?  You can’t.  When a 14 year old begs to you to take him fishing, you take him fishing.  So, my man Brock and I tackled the C&R section of the Lower Owens for ~4 hours.  In general terms it was not slow…we saw action all day.  But, for some reason we couldn’t land a fish to save our lives.  Of course when you guide a 14 year old you are not fishing a lot… you are tying rigs and pulling flies out of trees and tying on new flies and undoing tangles and teaching about reading the water and doubling back to get his forgotten backpack riverside and teaching about the hatches.  All totally worth it.  I love that kid and I love that he loves to fly fish.

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I did sneak in some fishing on top with dries when the hatch went off and did pretty darn well.  It took me forever to find the right caddis.  Once I did, I saw a ton of strikes.  Mostly small fish, but I did have a nice 14” brown take me on top and I battled him for 45 seconds or so before he went ballistic and shook my barbless hook.  That was worth the day.  Well, that and fishing with brock.  Fishing with my man Brock was a highlight of the trip.